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Introducing a low-confidence dog
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arianwenarie
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:04 pm    Post subject: Introducing a low-confidence dog Reply with quote

I'm not sure if this thread is in the right place. If it isn't, then I apologize...

Recently, my friend, her dog, my dog and myself have been going on walks together so that both dogs can be in the presence of another dog. We've done this for 2 days now, going on 1.5 hour walks in the evening and hanging out in the living room when we've completed our walk. The thing is, on their walk, my dog and I walk in front of my friend and her dog because the sidewalk is narrow. My question is, is this a good way for a shy/timid/low confidence dog (my friend's) and a more confident/slightly playful but can be calm dog (mine) to be introduced to each other?

When we're in the house, we let both dogs drag their leashes around under our supervision just in case my dog decides to jump on my friend's dog. Mine is 55lbs while her's is 20lbs and mine is nearly 5 times bigger than her's. Haha. We also noticed her dog will bare his teeth and give a low growl at my dog if she's too close to him. She usually takes the hint and backs off, but sometimes, I feel she's pressing the issue and staying too close for his comfort for a couple seconds too long. She'll back off when she's told off by me readily, but am I correcting the right dog? There was only one time where my dog practiced a bit of avoidance - my friend's dog went to go drink out of the water bowl and when he was done, he went into the kitchen; my dog takes her turn at the water and when he approached, she (almost) immediately left the water bowl and went back to her crate and stayed put. It wasn't until I had to give her a release command + encouragement to come back out of the crate - she hesitated to drink...not 100% sure if she was allowed to. Haha. Silly dog.

I can tell both dogs are somewhat interested in each other, but my friend's dog isn't 100% comfortable around my dog. We plan to take walks and hang out like this every day so that the dogs can get used to each other...hoping we're doing the right thing.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the introduction goes it sounds like what you're doing is fine and I wouldn't worry too much, often the dogs have a way of establishing order themselves. Some dogs just hate each other from the very first moment but in your case it sounds like they're on the way to becoming friends. Your friend's dog knows how to stand up for itself by warning your dog to back off when it gets too pushy. I'd just leave them to it really and give them time to get to know each other better.

One thing to keep an eye on though is that some dogs get possessive over the water bowl and who drinks first... from what you wrote I don't think they would break out into a fight over it but you might just want to monitor them or give them each their own bowl so there's no tension.

When out walking you could alternate leadership and take turns with walking in front so that both dogs feel comfortable in either position. Some dogs just naturally want to be out in front though while others feel more comfortable walking behind. The dogs will let you know. Smile

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arianwenarie
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Debby2000 wrote:
One thing to keep an eye on though is that some dogs get possessive over the water bowl and who drinks first... from what you wrote I don't think they would break out into a fight over it but you might just want to monitor them or give them each their own bowl so there's no tension.


Ah. I'll keep this in mind. Thanks for the advice. Smile Although, both dogs know the humans are boss and that the bowl and whatever is in it ultimately belongs to the humans. Both dogs are on close supervision when they're sharing a space and I observe their body language. Any time my dog seems to get too pushy, she gets the crate command or a firm "back off".

Debby2000 wrote:
When out walking you could alternate leadership and take turns with walking in front so that both dogs feel comfortable in either position. Some dogs just naturally want to be out in front though while others feel more comfortable walking behind. The dogs will let you know. Smile


We have tried this, but my friend's dog seems to want to keep a tab on where my dog is when he's walking in front of us. So, for both dogs' comfort, me and my dog walk in front while my friend and her dog walk behind us - this allows her dog to approach mine whenever he feels like it while I can get my dog to focus on me. Does it make any difference where both dogs are in reference to their handler? Because both dogs aren't ones who walk in front of their human - mine walks on my left while my friend's walks alternating his position from time to time, but never in front.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you make a video?
That tells more about the language used by the dogs towards eachother and if you are doing the correct thing.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I totally agree whit Debby. And as long as they have not the intention to fight you don't have to worn them when one of them start to growl.
Here that happens also whit two dogs that are great friends and sometimes it just a way to tell each other something that I don't thing we must involved whit that. But for that you really have to know both dogs reaction so you know it wont get into a fight and keep them on close supervision what you are already doing.( I hope you know what I mean because I don't know my english is clear enough)

About the walking I think you doing that just great The confident dog upfront and then when the other dog is a little bit more confident of her/him self than you can try to turn it around.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karen wrote:
Can you make a video?
That tells more about the language used by the dogs towards each other and if you are doing the correct thing.


I can try to do this, but I'm not sure if my friend will be OK with it. I'll run this by her first before I just go and start taping her and her dog to post on the 'net. Haha.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

miran wrote:
I totally agree whit Debby. And as long as they have not the intention to fight you don't have to worn them when one of them start to growl.
Here that happens also whit two dogs that are great friends and sometimes it just a way to tell each other something that I don't thing we must involved whit that. But for that you really have to know both dogs reaction so you know it wont get into a fight and keep them on close supervision what you are already doing.( I hope you know what I mean because I don't know my english is clear enough)

About the walking I think you doing that just great The confident dog upfront and then when the other dog is a little bit more confident of her/him self than you can try to turn it around.


No worries about your English. It's perfectly fine. Smile (truth be told, I have read worse English on the writing site I frequent...and English seems to be their first language. Shocked ) So would the best thing be to just let them sort it out on their own? My concern is that my dog will get too close, her dog will feel threatened and snap, and then my dog will react to it in a negative way. My dog is significantly bigger than her's so that is our main concern. Is it a wise idea to keep my friend's dog's crate in the house so that he can use it as a place to hide? My dog already knows not to stick her nose into his crate because I deemed it off-limits to her and she's one to mind her boundaries very well.

On the walks, both dogs's tails are down in a relaxed position and they're just enjoying the walk in each other's presence. This transitions into the house for the first 10 minutes and then my dog wants to get closer with my friend's dog to play, I think. My dog's tail is straight up perpendicular to her body, but not wagging; his tail is low, but not tucked between his legs while they are nearly nose to nose. He will approach her sometimes if she's laying down on her side in a non-threatening position, but once he touches her with his nose, she'll take a look at who's sniffing her, but not in a aggressive manner. There are no play bows from my dog...I think she's just still trying to initiate a proper greeting...?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old is each dog? If yours is a pup and hers an adult I would say that this behavior sounds okay. However, if I understand this right, if her dog is guarding his water bowl there's really not much you can do without her permission.
When raising our pups, we always put our hand in the bowl, take the food away, etc. to prevent resource guarding. It's a long process and even Fenris regresses a little when something special is at stake (such as today with a rawhide--which we never give them but they were at their 'grandparents' house.)
But yes, more than one water bowl would be a good way to go. Otherwise I think the only thing you could do, with your friends permission, is to have your dog drink first, then hers second. (if you subscribe to the Ceasar Millan thing). Maybe give her dog a treat for not growling / fussing when your dog drinks first.
And yes, I agree that this is hard to judge without seeing it. Fenris and Freyja would probably look like they're fighting to a 'non dog' person...but they are playing. Sometimes it gets out of control and we stop them...but it can look pretty scary (gnashing teeth and noises).
If your friends dog doesn't like your dog out front, maybe your dog should walk out front, and when your friends dog isn't behaving inappropriately she/he should get a treat. good behavior...treat...good behavior...treat...bad behavior...no treat Smile
This is just my thought, and by no means am I a dog trainer, or claim to be.
We have the same issue with Fen & Freyja--but they both want to be out front...so it's a little nuts! They / we start school tomorrow--I can't wait!!!
Good luck! Hope the pups become good friends.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

coyotegyrl wrote:
How old is each dog? If yours is a pup and hers an adult I would say that this behavior sounds okay.


Yea, I have the "pup". Mine is estimated to be about 1.5 years old while her dog is 7 years old.

coyotegyrl wrote:
However, if I understand this right, if her dog is guarding his water bowl there's really not much you can do without her permission.


No, neither dog guards resources. It just so happened that my dog decided to back away to give her dog some room when he was walking towards her. He was merely passing by, not even focused on her.

coyotegyrl wrote:
But yes, more than one water bowl would be a good way to go. Otherwise I think the only thing you could do, with your friends permission, is to have your dog drink first, then hers second. (if you subscribe to the Ceasar Millan thing). Maybe give her dog a treat for not growling / fussing when your dog drinks first.
And yes, I agree that this is hard to judge without seeing it. Fenris and Freyja would probably look like they're fighting to a 'non dog' person...but they are playing. Sometimes it gets out of control and we stop them...but it can look pretty scary (gnashing teeth and noises).
If your friends dog doesn't like your dog out front, maybe your dog should walk out front, and when your friends dog isn't behaving inappropriately she/he should get a treat. good behavior...treat...good behavior...treat...bad behavior...no treat Smile
This is just my thought, and by no means am I a dog trainer, or claim to be.
We have the same issue with Fen & Freyja--but they both want to be out front...so it's a little nuts! They / we start school tomorrow--I can't wait!!!
Good luck! Hope the pups become good friends.


There's no aggression or anything between them and we allow the less confident dog (my friend's) drink water first while my dog has to wait. My dog usually doesn't go for any food/water unless she gets an OK from me. My friend's dog, on the other hand, has confidence issues and has to be encouraged to take food/water - she's done this his whole life. Also, towards the end of our walk this evening, my friend's dog was walking almost parallel to my dog, but he just isn't too keen of my dog's face being in close vicinity of his. Both dogs are still clearly interested in each other, but each proceeds at their own pace, just like miran said...they're working it out between themselves. Today, my dog went up to my friend's dog when we were inside the house and settle down - it would have been a nose to nose had my friend's dog not bared his teeth and gave a warning growl to my dog. She took the hint and backed off while we watched them close by - we didn't take the leashes off yet. When my dog turned around to mind her own business, he was trailing after her rump sniffing her. Haha. So all in all, I think with enough time, my friend's dog will be more confident and comfortable with my dog. There's just a slight bit of growling and teeth baring from her dog only, but no more snapping like the first day. Progress!! Yay! Oh yes, and both dogs behave properly when we're on the walk...if my dog gets too close to my friend's dog when we're stopped, he'll cower behind my friend's legs. I think his confidence is low because whenever he would cower in fear, she would try to comfort him in a comforting (human) tone of voice by saying, "It's ok," and then start playing with him in an attempt to get his mind off of whatever it is he fears. I noticed this and told my friend to stop doing that because it only teaches him it's ok to be afraid of random things - like a car going past; he's easily spooked.

ahem...sorry. I just wrote an essay in my enthusiasm. Haha.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha. Yes, I think time is the key. Fenris started out being a fearful puppy, so we took him around as many people / dogs / situations as we could, and gave him lots of praise and treats when he was acting non-fearful. And ignored him or corrected him when he was fearful. (He got to the point at one time in his puppyhood when he would completely freeze if there were cars going by...which doesn't work when you live in the city!)
We also had him around some dogs who acted similar--didn't want anything to do with a boisterous puppy. We let them sort it out and everything was fine...no bites ... just a lot of growling, posturing and teeth bearing.
I guess knowing how to read their body language is key.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll do fine Smile

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I think his confidence is low because whenever he would cower in fear, she would try to comfort him in a comforting (human) tone of voice by saying, "It's ok," and then start playing with him in an attempt to get his mind off of whatever it is he fears. I noticed this and told my friend to stop doing that because it only teaches him it's ok to be afraid of random things - like a car going past; he's easily spooked.


Like you said yourself that will only teaches him its ok to be scared because in her mind(human) she think she comfort him but in his mind she says: O what a good boy you are you just behave like I want you to.
The best thing to do is just ignore him and when he starts to bark tell him not to( tell him that he is not showing the behavior you want)
hihi but I see now that I just said what coyotegyrl already said hihi
But if I read it all till now I think whit time they will get there Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well... Actually it is alright to start playing with the dog around things he is scared of. What you don't want to do is to comfort him, but you can be there for him. Those are 2 different things.

I you are in an area that scares the dog and he wants to hide behind you: Perfect! Let him hide. Don't let him bark, but to confront scarry situations together is alright. He should learn that he is safe with you and you will protect him as a leader should.

Where it goes wrong is when you pet him when he starts showing of by barking behind your legs or when you move away from the object that scares him.

There is a thin line between these two.
Can't really explain in English, sorry Embarassed But it is ok to reassure, provide support not to comfort your dog.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as possession over food and water. There is no difference.

A lot of dogs show aggression towards other dogs over the water bowl, nothing you can do about that. Doesn't matter that you are the boss! You don't play a part in that discussion between dogs Wink

I never take food away from my dogs! I 've seen numerous cases where from that, aggression increased or started. If a dog has something what is his, it is theirs!
YES: I am allowed to go near their food or chew-thing and I don't allow any growling or whatever. But to take their food?
Why?
If a pack has their prey, the alpha gives the rest permission to eat, do you thing the alpha is allowed to just take away their food again without any objection???

When they steal something from the kitchen or whatever, I take it back from them. Sure. But to take back their for too often will just give the opposite affect sometimes.

If a dog has aggression towards people in case of food, show them that you are no threat... Stand in a safe distance that the dog allows and just start throwing treats on the floor. Everytime a bit closer, but don't take their food.

We are alpha's.... but: In my opinion it doesn't mean we have every right to do whatever we want or how we want it.
A good alpha let sometimes things go...Avoids a conflict and it that way lets the other dogs see that there is nothing wrong.
A good alpha dog in a pack doesn't have to get into a fight or always has to let the others show he/ she is around and is the boss.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karen wrote:
Well... Actually it is alright to start playing with the dog around things he is scared of. What you don't want to do is to comfort him, but you can be there for him. Those are 2 different things.

I you are in an area that scares the dog and he wants to hide behind you: Perfect! Let him hide. Don't let him bark, but to confront scarry situations together is alright. He should learn that he is safe with you and you will protect him as a leader should.

Where it goes wrong is when you pet him when he starts showing of by barking behind your legs or when you move away from the object that scares him.

There is a thin line between these two.
Can't really explain in English, sorry Embarassed But it is ok to reassure, provide support not to comfort your dog.


I do understand you. It is exactly what I wanted to tell but you re words are better than mine I think. Wink
So is you're following post
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karen and miran,

Many thanks for all your advice. Smile Very helpful. I just have a question about how the human should react when the dog is fearful of something... What happens if the dog whines instead of barking/growling? I'm guessing he trying to say he wants to get out of the situation...?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

arianwenarie wrote:
I just have a question about how the human should react when the dog is fearful of something... What happens if the dog whines instead of barking/growling? I'm guessing he trying to say he wants to get out of the situation...?

Don't pet or comfort the dog and whatever you do don't pick it up. It will just serve to reward the fearful behavior. (That's why so many small dog breeds have such a nasty attitude, because the owner taught it to behave that way when it was a pup by picking it up every time it got scared.)

You can try talking to the dog to reassure it but avoid saying "it's OK" or "good dog" as that will just act as positive reinforcement. Just keep a calm, confident tone and coax the dog past whatever is scary, then reward it for being brave. You can also try distracting the dog by holding a treat in your hand and make it focus on the treat rather than the scary object (or whatever) but don't give it the treat until it after it stops being afraid. Wink

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, actually you CAN pick up your dog... But a lot of people do it at the wrong moment or the wrong behavior. That is the problem.
If your dog is scared or overwhelmed by the situation without being nasty to an other dog or human, you can pick him up. Just don't get him out of the situation. Stay there until he/she calms down.
If a dog start biting and growling out of fear or just because he thinks he can get away with it because the owner is nearby: Don't pick him up!

What you see with a lot of smaller dogs is that they start barking and nipping towards other dogs or people and run back to the owner, or start the minute they are near the owner.
Then you should step away.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

arianwenarie wrote:
Karen and miran,

Many thanks for all your advice. Smile Very helpful. I just have a question about how the human should react when the dog is fearful of something... What happens if the dog whines instead of barking/growling? I'm guessing he trying to say he wants to get out of the situation...?


Hope your question is answered by my reply? Or do you mean something else?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

all the upper advice is great. And at the moment something like that happened and you don't know what to do (when it is only behavior without fighting and so) ignore it. Ignore is at a moment like that then better then react in a wrong way.
And if he wines instead of barking I would tell him the same as if he was barking. But in a way that you keep in mined that he does it out of fear and not out of being a bad dog. (I hope you know what I mean by that because in both situations I use a different tone of voice)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karen wrote:

A lot of dogs show aggression towards other dogs over the water bowl, nothing you can do about that. Doesn't matter that you are the boss! You don't play a part in that discussion between dogs Wink

I never take food away from my dogs! I 've seen numerous cases where from that, aggression increased or started. If a dog has something what is his, it is theirs!
YES: I am allowed to go near their food or chew-thing and I don't allow any growling or whatever. But to take their food?
Why?
If a pack has their prey, the alpha gives the rest permission to eat, do you thing the alpha is allowed to just take away their food again without any objection???

When they steal something from the kitchen or whatever, I take it back from them. Sure. But to take back their for too often will just give the opposite affect sometimes.

If a dog has aggression towards people in case of food, show them that you are no threat... Stand in a safe distance that the dog allows and just start throwing treats on the floor. Everytime a bit closer, but don't take their food.

We are alpha's.... but: In my opinion it doesn't mean we have every right to do whatever we want or how we want it.
A good alpha let sometimes things go...Avoids a conflict and it that way lets the other dogs see that there is nothing wrong.
A good alpha dog in a pack doesn't have to get into a fight or always has to let the others show he/ she is around and is the boss.


Karen,
Now that you say that it makes perfect sense...some things were adopted by us from other people, and they didn't make sense to me and I couldn't figure out why. But, yes, I understand this and agree that food wouldn't be taken away.

What would you do if two dogs were fighting over a toy or rawhide (specifically). Would you take it away so that no one could have it? In this case, it is two pups: 10 months and 4 months. The 10 month old is overall a well behaved pup, but got extremely nasty all of a sudden toward the 4 month old when she tried to take a rawhide from him. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dogs are not allowed alone with chew things, just to prevent things like this. I have 6 dogs here....you don't want to see them all getting in to fight Rolling Eyes Trust me...Been there, done that.
I should correct the 4 month old first, it has no business with that of the 10mnth old, and even tho they are both pups, for now the 10month old is dominant over the 4 month old.
Put them both in a corner and make sure they both can chew in peace.

If the older one stays in his place and warns the younger one without harming it, perfect. Otherwise I would correct the older one as well by voice and stand by him if he corrects it in a more subtle way.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Karen!
Of course, this situation was at my in-laws house...but they're our dogs and I need to work with them on that (them as in the in laws Smile ). For now, the dogs are done going over there on a regular basis, so I have much more control over how things go.

(an unimportant detail as to why I took the rawhide away: Fenris had eaten most of his and softened up the bit that was left. Freyja stole the softer bit, so Fenris took what was left of hers (which was most of the thing.) The trading was done without a peep from either dog. Once Freyja fished the small bit, she wanted the large piece back and that's when Fenris went a little nuts. He didn't hurt her, he just sounded much, much more aggressive than I've ever heard him. Fenris is probably too tolerant of Freyja. And while he is the older one, I think Freyja is working out to be the dominant dog. They're almost the same height now! But Fen still outweighs her by 25 pounds.... all in all, if it were my choice they woudln't get rawhide anyway. i'd give them something else. But, maybe that was good for Fenris to establish dominance over Freyja?)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are male and female?

Maybe she will get more dominant, maybe end up equally....
I also know males and females where the bitch seem the dominant one but just up to the point that the male allows it and vice versa.
In my opinion he had the right to put her in her place and she accepted the correction?
Trading chews happens here as well sometimes. I know which dogs like the softened chews and who don't care. So, if I see one looking out to steal a softer chew, most of the time I make the trade for them to avoid problems.

The get things over here at a regular base, but just never without my presence. Also nobody is allowed to give them something without my being there.

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coyotegyrl
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karen wrote:
They are male and female?


Yes, Fenris is a neutered male, and Freyja is a intact female. And yes, I agree with you that no one should be giving my dogs something without permission. It's hard to tell the in-laws that though! Embarassed

I've heard bad things about rawhide: that it can bind up their stomachs. Is this true? Also, I didn't think Freyja should have it because she's teething. Is this incorrect?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rawhide is that really white chewy stuff? That they roll up?

I never heard stuff about binding up their stomachs... Confused I almost lost Magu because of something like that (was rushed into surgery... 1/2 hour later and it would have been too late) but that had nothing to do with things like that. I give them as well.
Also a pup in teething, why not? If it hurts too much it will stop anyway I would guess.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep rawhide isn't great because large chunks are hard to digest. Chewing off tiny bits is OK because they will pass though their system but if they swallow the larger pieces (or the rubbery part that's left over) it can end up staying in their stomach or obstruct their bowels, leading to bloat, which can require surgery. Bully sticks are better because even if large pieces are swallowed they can still be easily digested.

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Rawhide: Many dogs have been autopsied with bits of undigested rawhide in their stomachs. This has not been the cause of death outright, but certainly causes its own share of problems, it inhibits food digestion. Rawhide is also a common choking hazard. Sure many dogs eat rawhide every day and survive, but equally so, many choke and die. Rawhide should never be given to an unsupervised dog or a dog in a crate.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rubbery part?

Ok...guess I don't realy know what rawhide is Confused Anyone got a picture of it?

We already don't give the dogs nothing without our presence. One reason is to prevent fighting, other is to prevent choking.
That can happen with any kind of chewy stuff! Bully sticks, pig or cows ears etc... makes no difference.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, read it.

Yes, it is all true what they say.... But than again: It can happen with almost every chew stick thing you give them.!
Think you should look at your dog... If they eat it completely without swallowing big parts: Perfect! Otherwise, take it away when the remaining part is too little to chew but too big to digest and the dog is likely too swallow it.

Sometimes I think they want you worried and afraid for everything. There is always something to find that can harm your dog. Sure it is safer to give them a kong, but lets keep a dog a dog! Let them live a little....

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karen wrote:
Hope your question is answered by my reply? Or do you mean something else?


Yep. Smile Thanks. Now that we've gone a tad bit off topic, I'd like to continue the off-topic-ness. haha. I tried giving Abby ("my" dog) a bully stick, but she had nearly 70% of it in her mouth at one point - I don't know how she was chewing it - and I got a bit concerned when it sounded like she was inhaling it. I was watching her the entire time though; I saw that when I turned my back for a second. Afraid that she would hurt herself, I used an apple slice in exchange for her bully stick because my gut feeling told me the bully stick was as high value to her as a peanut butter filled kong. I felt that if I went to take it from her, she would definitely bite me. Better to play it safe than sorry. She gave it up quite easily...it took a few seconds; and when I fed her the apple, I put myself between her and the stick that she dropped on the floor to pick up the stick. After I took it away subtly, she was looking for the stick for a little bit - I hid it in the bathroom where she's not allowed in - but soon gave up after a few minutes of enthusiastic sniffing.

I decided I could probably give her the bully stick to chew if I did not fully give it to her - she would have to be chewing it while I held it in my hands. She happily chewed on it like this for a few minutes until I noticed a little bit of blood on the stick - she has some plaque build-up on her teeth - I got a tad worried because I didn't know whether a jagged piece of the stick nicked her gums or the bleeding was from the plaque against her gums coming off. From here, I had to start a little game of tug-of-war with her, but since she was on tile floor and I was on carpet, I had a little bit more leverage and I won the "game". I was surprised when she didn't press the issue to get the stick back - no lunging for it or anything - but she did try to search for it after I put it away. Ok, enough background info...my question is: What is a good way to take a high value treat away from her safely (for both dog and handler)? I don't want to play another game of tug-of-war with her because she is a 55lb muscular lab and I'm a 5'1 90lb out-of-shape girl...odds are stacked up against me, often times, so this isn't something I want to risk again. Also, the exchange thing worked one time, but I don't know if it's going to work a second time.

I've been working with her to back-off from a nearly finished bowl of veggie slop during meal times and she does so happily - this doesn't necessarily transfer to treats though. Since we got her back in March, there was never a need to take anything away from her. A slight "aa." whenever she got near something she isn't supposed to have warded her off instantly and she never pressed the issue again. Any advice for the novice dog handler? Haha. Razz

(Sorry for the essay-lengthed post! Embarassed )

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